Where the Gods Dwell: Thirteen Temples and their (hi)stories by Manu S. Pillai

Author:Manu S. Pillai [Pillai, Manu S.]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Published: 2021-11-15T00:00:00+00:00

Jai Somnath!

Vikrant Pande

Hundreds of fishing boats lie anchored at the seashore at Veraval as we drive out of the Somnath railway station. The smell of dry fish is overpowering but the quest for the Lord makes us ignore it as we move to the town of Somnath, a few kilometres away. This region, called Prabhas Patan, is a place of worship of both Shiva and Krishna (Vishnu) and thus its uniqueness. And we are here to discover both.

The Somnath temple’s magnificent 155-feet-high spire is visible from a distance, with a huge flag fluttering in the sea breeze on a 31-feet-tall post. We are mesmerised at the very sight of the temple. Our driver tells us that the topmost golden kalash weighs approximately 10 tonnes! Another 56 smaller golden kalash on the sloping roof of the temple glint in the evening sun, enticing us to hurry. The facilities to deposit our sandals and phones are conveniently placed and we enter the temple after walking on a long path. The temple brochure tells us that it is built in the Chalukya style of architecture or the ‘Kailash Mahameru Prasad’ style and reflects the skill of the Sompura Salats, one of Gujarat’s master masons and from a branch of the Brahmin community, originally from Somnath.1 A total of 64 intricately carved pillars support the temple. It faces east and has three entrances. The waves of the Arabian Sea can be heard nearby. Built at the western tip of Gujarat, right at the seashore, we are entering one of the most revered places in India. The temple finds reference in the Shreemad Bhagwat, Skanda Purana, Shiva Purana and the Rig Veda.

Chants of Shiva Rudra reverberate as we enter the temple. We are in time for the evening aarti at seven. The sun has just set, leaving the western sky with a golden hue. A group of Brahmins sitting in a corner inside chant together. After a brief silence, when the chanting ends, the drums, cymbals and the trumpets take over and we are enthralled by the captivating atmosphere created all around. It instantly transports us into a different world.

We notice that the Shiva Linga, one of the 12 Jyotirlingas in India, is massive—nearly 4 feet tall. The sanctum sanctorum and the doors are completely gold-plated. But it is the linga which has been the attraction for times immemorial. The popularity of the rituals held at the temple is seen from the list of the poojas available for a devotee to perform. A quick glance at the list takes us by surprise; at the top is the ‘Homantak Atirudra’ pooja costing a whopping ₹21 lakhs while the ‘Mahamrityunjay Jap’ and ‘Panchopachar’ pooja cost a reasonable ₹200! There are in total 39 different poojas one can pay for at the office.

A bath in the sea is supposed to wash off all the sins but the rocky shore which is supposed to be deep as well dissuades us. We notice an interesting structure—the ‘Baan Stambh’ or the Arrow Pillar situated in the temple premises.

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